My husband and I love to visit lighthouses. For the past decade, we have traveled across the state of Michigan, photographing them, learning their history, and climbing the towers of any that are open to the public. A year ago, we wandered around the grounds of the Sand Hills Lighthouse Inn, located in the Keweenaw Peninsula, and knew that we would like to stay there one day.
That desire became a reality this past weekend, when we arrived at Sand Hills for a two-night stay. Before we went inside, we were greeted by a sign on the front door which welcomed all of the guests by name. Mary Frabotta met us at the door. She and her husband Bill own the lighthouse, and also reside there. Mary led us up a beautiful staircase with lighted, ornate bronze figures on each of the posts, and showed us to our room, which overlooked Lake Superior. Decorated in aqua tones, the room was filled with antique Victorian furnishings which seemed fitting for royalty. As we commented on the decor, Mary explained that her husband used to be a photographer, and had taken both of the portraits that graced the walls in our room. She also pointed out the crown moulding, which Bill himself had made. After informing us that the guests gather downstairs each evening at 8 p.m. for dessert, conversation and music around the grand piano, she left us to unpack and settle in.
When we went downstairs a short time later, we began looking at the photo albums and various lighthouse books which lined shelves and were stacked a foot high on top of a wooden chest. Mary joined us and began telling us about the history of Sand Hills. The lighthouse was constructed in 1917 and 1918 and remained active until 1939, when the Coast Guard automated the station. The property was auctioned off by the government in 1958, and Bill purchased the lighthouse three years later.
Bill and Mary converted the Fog Signal Station into a cottage and spent over 30 summers there, while dreaming and planning the necessary renovations to restore the lighthouse and turn it into an enchanting travel destination. Mary said that the building had been vandalized during the years it stood vacant, and explained that with all the windows shot out, time and the elements had destroyed all but the exterior brickwork and the structure’s supporting beams. She told us that when the renovations began, there were no walls or floors, just a two or three-feet deep pile of rubble, which was painstakingly removed through chutes in the window openings.
Directing our attention to the grand piano, she told us that she had given piano lessons for years, and that this piano had been in Bill’s photography studio in Dearborn, which was destroyed by fire. She showed us the smoke-damaged area along the side of the piano. She then pointed out the woodwork in the common room, which was also Bill’s handiwork. Above the fireplace Bill constructed, hung a beautiful painting of the lighthouse created by Bill’s brother. Mary gave us a tour of some of the other seven guest rooms, each of which had its own Victorian charm. Everything seemed to have a story, from the portraits throughout the lighthouse, all taken by Bill, to a sewing cabinet built by Bill’s father and decoratively hand-painted by his mother, to an impressive armoire they purchased at an estate sale. She also showed us a portrait of the first keeper of the Sand Hills lighthouse and his wife, ironically, also named Bill and Mary.
Mary’s enthusiasm as she led us throughout the lighthouse was contagious, and we soaked every bit of it in, like sponges. She took us to the tower, stopping at a landing which showcased 18 photos of the lighthouse in various stages of construction in 1918, and each of the 18 frames were handmade by Bill and Mary. When we arrived at the top of the tower, she took our picture standing inside, then led us outside and took additional pictures, which did not turn out as the wind was whipping my hair into my face. Back inside, she took pictures of each of us climbing down the ladder to the landing below.
We left to go to dinner, and when we returned, spent time in our room, relaxing and reading. There was no television, and sporadic cell phone reception, and it was nice to be “unplugged” for a change. When we joined the other guests at 8 p.m., a couple of the guests weren’t yet back from their dinner. I asked Bill what was inside the building behind the lighthouse. He proceeded to lead the group outside and into “the barracks”, which he had converted to a recreation room for the guests. Now it was Bill’s turn to share some history. He did all the woodwork himself. He told a story about the stained glass light above the pool table, showed us the old church pews that graced tables where guests can play “an honest game of cards”, an ornate and quite massive antique bar that he purchased which was going to be destroyed during the demolition of a tavern in a neighboring town, Old West posters he had collected in his youth, and a breathtaking replica of Botticelli’s ‘The Birth of Venus’ on the ceiling above the bar. It was evident that Bill and Mary have passionately put every bit of themselves into this beautiful property.
Back inside, Mary served a delicious Bundt cake, which she quite accurately referred to as “Heaven on a Plate”. Bill gathered our dishes as we finished eating, and could be heard rinsing them in the kitchen as Mary entertained the group at the piano. It was relaxing and homey, and one gentleman was actually lulled to sleep as she played. We all dispersed to our respective rooms, and a short time later, all was quiet. In the darkness, I listened to the waves crashing on the shore and tried to imagine what it might have been like to have manned the lighthouse during a storm. It was a windy night, but by no means was it stormy, nor remotely resembling the gale-force winds which are often experienced on Lake Superior.
I usually awaken by 5 a.m. at the latest. I couldn’t believe when I looked at the clock the next morning and it read 7:32 a.m. I enjoyed the most restful night’s sleep that I’ve had in ages. The cell phone apps and sound machines which emit the sound of waves pale in comparison to the real thing. Mother Nature orchestrated the perfect lullaby in a cozy and comfortable setting provided by Bill and Mary.
We joined 13 other guests in the dining room for breakfast. As Mary put the finishing touches on the meal, we conversed with the others. Mary brought out a fabulous breakfast spread of egg soufflé, sausage, homemade English muffins with homemade strawberry jam, Danish Krinkle, fruit compote, orange juice and coffee. While everyone was commending her culinary skills, she sat down at the piano and played for us again.
Some of the guests departed after breakfast, while the rest of us went off to see the sights, following our own agendas. We had hoped to rent mountain bikes and explore the Copper Harbor bicycle trails, while taking in the fall colors. The chill in the air and the force of the wind made us postpone that adventure for another trip. Instead, we went to various waterfalls, photographed the Eagle River, Eagle Harbor and Copper Harbor lighthouses, drove along the gorgeous Brockway Mountain Drive, stopped in several shops and visited historic Fort Wilkins along the shore of Lake Fanny Hooe. It was an enjoyable day, and we debated whether we were even hungry after such a huge breakfast when we stopped at 4 p.m. for a late lunch/early dinner.
When we arrived back at Sand Hills, Mary greeted us at the door and asked about our day. After filling her in, we went to our room to rest before the 8 p.m. dessert. Mary likes to take requests for her evening piano selections, and I had forgotten that I had asked her permission to peruse her sheet music, so I went back downstairs and chose two pieces and left them on her piano.
At 8 p.m., six guests gathered in the common room and shared conversation, mostly revolving around our respective travels, while we heard whirring noises coming from the kitchen and speculated, correctly, that Mary was whipping cream. She brought out delicious Key lime pie topped with freshly-whipped cream and began playing the songs I had selected, followed by a song that she knew was a particular favorite of another guest. Upon learning that we have been involved in various musical productions throughout the years, she opted to play several show tunes. She asked me to sing, but I declined as I’d had a sore throat for two days, since visiting a dusty and quite congested antique store.
“Will you sing Edelweiss?” she asked. I recalled how singing that song always had a soothing effect on one of my former day care children, but with a scratchy throat, thought it best to decline.
“What’s your favorite song from ‘The Sound of Music’?” she asked. Truthfully, I like all of them, but the one I’ve always enjoyed most since childhood quickly popped into my mind. I smiled and replied, “The Lonely Goatherd”.
Everyone laughed, and Mary said she didn’t have the sheet music for that. (Thank goodness!). She then proceeded to play it by ear! My husband kept encouraging me to sing it, but I politely thanked Mary for playing the song and explained that I only yodel in front of my family.
We all stayed up talking for a while before going to bed, where once again, the sound of the waves made me drift off to sleep. We slept in until 8 a.m. (!!!!), which is absolutely unheard of for me. When we went downstairs for breakfast, Mary served eggs, turkey ham, homemade scones with homemade jam, the most amazing, melt-in-your-mouth apple strudel, fruit, orange juice and coffee. Once everyone began to eat, she sat down at the piano and played “Moon River” for one of the departing guests, and once again played “The Lonely Goatherd”, especially for me.
We were a little sad as we went upstairs to gather our luggage to leave, but we both know that we’ll return someday. After all, there are seven rooms we haven’t yet stayed in! When we came downstairs, Mary gave us the welcome sign with our names on it from the front door, to keep as a memento. I told her that the greatest memento of our time at Sand Hills, even more so than the pictures we took and the stories they shared, will be the CD of her piano music we had purchased the night before.
Never having experienced a Bed and Breakfast/Inn atmosphere, we were quite impressed how a group of strangers can connect over food and music, and have it feel almost like family. When we discussed that with the other guests the previous evening, they said not all B&B’s are like Sand Hills, and that it’s Bill and Mary who make it so special with their warm and inviting personalities and their attention to detail.
Before we left, Mary asked whether we had time to tour the remaining guest rooms we hadn’t seen earlier because they were occupied. Of course we wanted to see them, and once again were impressed with the antique furnishings and the stories that went along with them. Back at the front door, ready to leave, yet not wanting to go, we asked Mary to stamp our lighthouse guidebook with the Sand Hills stamp. We thanked both Bill and Mary for their hospitality and shared how impressed we were with their personal touch throughout the property. Bill was pleased that we were so appreciative, because we were seeing the entire picture, and not just “staying at a lighthouse” for a couple of nights.
When Mary had shown us the picture of the first keepers, she told us the story of how they had acquired it. A 94 year old man drove to the lighthouse one day and explained that he had known the original keepers and he presented Bill and Mary with the picture. He knew it wouldn’t mean anything to his family after he died, but he knew that Bill and Mary would appreciate the historical significance of the picture. Bill enlarged and framed it, and they graciously adorned the wall by the first set of stairs leading to the tower with the picture of the first keepers.
“Guess what their names were?” Mary asked upon finishing her story. “They were Bill and Mary, just like us!” she concluded. I told her she had given me goosebumps with her story.
Prior to our departure, she wanted to show us something she had found in her basement. It was a drawing she had made when she was in elementary school. The front had a Christmas scene on it. When she turned it over, we were looking at a ‘house’ she had drawn, with a very unusual shape. It didn’t have the typical, triangular roof most children would draw. It was boxy and had a tall tower. It was a near match of Sand Hills lighthouse! Once again, I had goosebumps. I love those kind of odd coincidences in life. They seem to affirm that “what is” is “what was meant to be”.
They sent us off with hugs, handshakes and the leftover breakfast scones. When we got in the car, we began listening to the CD of Mary’s piano music and, as we drove away, both acknowledged that we had just experienced something special. We had witnessed the truest example of the phrase “labor of love”. Before we arrived, we had thought that we would stay at the Sand Hills lighthouse and I would have accomplished the first item on my “bucket list” of 45, before my next birthday. The end.
We came away with so much more! We had the privilege of meeting two people who envisioned their dream of renovating the lighthouse into an inn, who put all of their energy and talent into bringing their vision to life, and ultimately, created not just a place to stay, but a place to experience, and to take away from, while at the same time, leaving a piece of your heart behind. After two brief days at Sand Hills, Bill and Mary seem like more than proprietors, historians and gracious hosts. It’s almost as if we have gained new family members.
After leaving Sand Hills, we went to a couple of shops, an antique store, and attempted to tour the Calumet Theater, but were disappointed to learn that there are no Tuesday tours given during this time of year. We took pictures of the outside of the building, then went on to take pictures of the Jacobsville Lighthouse and the Portage River Lower Entrance light, before checking into our motel.
At around 7 p.m., I found myself wondering what Mary would be serving for dessert this evening, and what songs she would play on the piano. Moments later, the telephone rang in our room. We wondered who it could be, as we both have our cell phones, and our family, friends or co-workers would call our cell phones if they needed to reach us.
It was Mary. She had remembered where we would be staying tonight and called the motel because, after we left, she thought of a story she had forgotten to share which she knew would also give me goosebumps. I listened as she told another hair-raising tale, and chills washed over me. I thanked her again for their hospitality and assured her that we will never forget our time with them.
This is a lengthy post, but I wanted to preserve every moment of the experience. I would highly recommend a visit to Sand Hills to any lighthouse enthusiast, or to anyone simply longing to leave their cares behind for a peaceful getaway in beautiful surroundings, run by two very special people who will see to your every need … and then some.